The Love & The Hate

Waking up before dawn is one of those things every surfer have to do many times throughout their life. For me, waking up early has never been my strong side, but it has to be done to get those perfect waves alone before the massive crowd and wind bitch slaps you right in the face. Frustration in is a given fact when several hours has been put  into searching for that wave you jumped out of bed in the morning for, or its either not working, blown out or a crowd like someone posted and Facebook status on where to go and the whole surfing community was sucked straight like with a massive vacuum cleaner.

The other day when i paddled out at Bingin, i was baffled with what i saw. I counted the crowd to be 43 people surfing that little stretch of reef, the crowd was from the peak all the way to the end where some people were taking the scraps. It was insane!

These are things which makes you rattled and think of why the hell am I even trying to get a wave? When there are so many factors that can spoil your mood!? well, to me surfing is my life, hooked from the very start! Actually its the LOVE of my life. Pretty sure many people share the same feeling, when surfers are actually willing to fight for waves to fill up their own ego-bank. Its funny how it is so, and you really get to see the passion people have for surfing here on Bali.

This is how i see surfing, a love and hate longterm relationship. But, it has its many runs of glory! Like when your searching for waves with your friends, who are all in it for the same rush! When pulling something extraordinary off on a wave, when your about to board a plane somewhere new or familiar with high expectations of perfection. The rush and search never end let me tell you that!

Some photos of those moments of glory! 😀

Photo: Tom Ellis

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Morning glory with legends! Jonas Norberg & Markus Larsson looking at a right hander peeling

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The obligatory group photo.

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Impossibles looking all impossible.

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Bingin Photo: Tom Ellis

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A room with a view Photo: Tom Ellis

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On Point

My travels have been on point with a passport going hot these past months. From Central America to the Arctic North, from there on a quick stop in the Middle East, then on to Bali (South East Asia).

Back in Bali now, more like home again in the Surflodge Limasan villa. Just got back from a minor injury I picked up in Dubai while snowboarding the indoor park with mummy. Landed on my shoulder and got a Sprained AC on my right shoulder, which got me moving awkwardly for nearly 3 weeks. But all is good now.

Got some trips coming up, as well as the release of a little project of mine with my friend Ale Piu called Cold Seduction supported by Xtravel & Surfears, which will be up online these coming weeks.

Here are some photos from Norway, filming for Cold Seduction with Ale Piu and Husky Motion.

Offshore for days, with some cold peelers.

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Just another roadside view. Crazy scenery.

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The exploring never ends up there in the North.

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Norway.

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In Kiruna re-packing the car

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Husky Motion, next level selfie king!

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Somewhere in Lapland.

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Paradise Dispatch II:

Surf, Eat, surf, computer & movies, sleep & repeat it whats been going on the past weeks.

However took a couple of days off from the surf due to a sore muscle in the groin region, so i went venturing around the Nicoya peninsula with my Compadre William Smedman.

Driving in rivers, gunning it on the beach, just cruising up the coast not knowing what is a head is the fun part! At least we thought the only thing that could stop us was if we ended up with a dry tank. We were so wrong.

I ended up crashing the quad on the beach somewhere far from home, and it wouldn’t start. Smoke came out, oil & gas leak and on top of all the we got a flat tire.

BUT William the lord he is got it on photo.

William the lord, outside some bawling shack.

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The wright turn for destruction.

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The Brunelas crew at the beach for sunset sessions.

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Paradise Dispatch

Photos from around Santa Teresa with the Brunela crew.

There hasn’t been much swell around, so small wave shredding has been on the platter for the past week, but there are the odd fun one coming in. However the vibe around here is magical, some of the old Brunela warriors like Tucker, Kyle, Noah and Juancho lurking around doing their thing, then we got the Swedish and Argie crew which are trying to keep up. A true family vibe.

If you haven’t been to this magical stretch of coastline, put it on your list for places to visit.

Photos: Johan Hellström & Martina Llambi

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Costa Rica

Finally arrived at a place all to familiar. Santa Teresa, Costa Rica. My journey took 34 hours from airport to airport, give or take a couple of hours from point A to B, but it couldn’t have gone any smoother. Ended up getting a full row of seats for my self, so passing out straight the entire flight from london to NY was a must. Didn’t have to pays cent for boards to get here either, which saved me like 200 us dollars, winning! when i thought my luck was at its peak, i ended up getting free snacks, because of this weary old traveler who had to many vouchers, so i ended up getting a batch! One of the more comfortable long flight trips I’ve had.

But Coooooooosta Ricaa oooozzzzzaaaa what a place. Expecting some decent swell the next couple of days.

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Exploring the odd in Portugal

A months hiatus from surfing, due to my exploration of something different than just surfing all the time and a minor injury to my knee, I am so happy to finally be back in my little bubble if you can call it that.

Staying at surfers lodge in Peniche, Portugal to catch the colours of winter with my good mates Chris friend, Niklas Nyman and THE Australian guy named Jack fuller.

 The trip has had a fun start, a lot of those cultural moments and site seeing with the crew in our little fiat punto with stops for coffee, which is obligatory according to Friendy, and enjoying the great food at the lodge in front of the open fire after the long days out hunting for our nirvana.

The surf has been pretty up and down, with a lot driving around trying to find some decent waves to shred. Had session at Supertubos which ended up to be a complete fail for me, I think I went over the falls more than anyone, became pretty familiar to hard packed shallow sandbar where 6 footers where rolling in.

 More to come later on.

Here are some pics form the trip so far.

Photos: Niklas Nyman

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A special place

The past week the surf has been pumping here in Sweden, at least on the east coast. All the way from the south to the north there has been waves. Don’t know how long ago there was this many days in a row with fun and good surf; at least I have never surfed 6 days in row before when home in Sweden. So that was a new experience for me.

 Last weekend, Jacob Wester (Pro Skier) and I decided to hit the road on a mission up north in the hunt for some waves. Started the long drive up to Norrland in the middle of the night so we would be on site at first light. After a day spent up North we drove down to surf Torö again, that looked better on the weather charts, so we spent everyday surfing Torö instead to really maximise the days of surf here at home. If you want to read a more detailed story about our mission up north visit Jacobs blog here –> Jacob wester 

 

To sum up the past week here at home it has been freaking insane! Surfing all day hanging out with the boys and locals at Torö surfing our brains out and talking shop on the car park. But, the session that is not going to fade from my memory anytime soon is the last session we had this Wednesday. The session ended up with a solid crew of friends in the line up, aloha vibes and smiles everywhere, so many waves around, but the best part was that the wind died of and the sun came out slowly setting in back of a couple of islands colouring the sky with different colours of red and orange, with just endless waves rolling. Hands down the best session I’ve had in a long time, with stoke to the max. Thanks to all of you boys for a memorable session . 

These are some photos from one of the days at Torö. But the bangers we are holding on too.

 

Snap at Torö Photo: Sophie Zander

 

Jacob and I in Norrland getting ready. Photo: William Nylén

 

Jacob and I getting stoked to hit the water after a long drive. Photo: William Nylén

 

Me, thorwing some tail at Torö. Photo: Johan 6/5/4

 

Jacob in the middle of a cutback in Norrland. Photo: William Nylén

 

Backside air at Torö. Photo: Johan 6/5/4

 

Another Torö layback, this turn is slowly becoming my signature move these days. Photo: Johan 6/5/4

 

Its Beautiful Here.

A couple of weeks ago when I was travelling through Europe, for the European leg of the world Qualifying series, we met this Aussie chick at the surfers lodge in Peniche who runs this travel blog called www.itsbeautifulhere.com , where she features destinations from all over the world, a pretty handy guide to all these small unique places which the big magazines either don’t know about or are just too busy looking the other way. Anyways, she asked me to answer some questions about Portugal in general, and Peniche. 

Click on the photo to read the article.